Friday, March 23, 2012

How to Install a Valve on a Brewpot

So, you decided to finally put a spigot on your brewpot, huh? And now you need to know how to go about doing it? It's a damn great feeling when you know that soon you won't be lifting 40 lbs. of 212 degrees F wort. No more ice baths and waiting 30 minutes for it to cool.....because it won't fit in the sink anymore. Unfortunately, I was apparently so excited that I became absent minded in the process, because I completely forgot about this aspect until it was time to cool down. Don't make the same mistake as I did y'all, and be sure you know how you're going to chill your wort before you make any improvements to your setup. If you have homebrewing buddies, they might be willing to lend you a chiller - at least, for your first few batches.

"And now for something completely different." - Monty Python's Flying Circus. That's right. Let's get down to materials and process for our homebrewing excursion.


What You Will Need For Installing a Weldless Valve on a Brewpot:

Drill
Step Bit 7/8"
File
Lubricating Oil (gun oil works just fine)
Black Marker
Ruler
Hearing Protection (preferably, over-the-ear type)
Eye Protection
Weldless Cooler Valve Kit, Stainless Steel (available at any good homebrew supply)

Optional:
Nail or Small Punch
Drill Bit (for steel) 3/16"



Donning our safety gear, let's get started y'all.

*****NOTE: before you begin any home project, make sure that you have a minor first aid kit around and that it is properly stocked. also, be careful as to not get any metal filings in/ on your skin as they can rust in a few hours inside of your body. if you don't have a current tetanus shot you may be at a higher than usual risk of getting lockjaw from metal work injuries.*****

1 - Mark your spot on the brewpot with a black marker where you want the center of the spigot. Center of hole should be about 1"-1.5" above the bottom of the inside of the brewpot and definitely above the inverted shoulder (curved area towards bottom of brewpot). I used the ruler here to make sure mine was centered under one of my handles.

2 - Place the brewpot on a solid surface out of doors. Find a way to steady the brewpot as we don't want it moving about while we drill a hole into its steel belly. I placed my knee in mine since it was deep enough and the hole was far enough away from my leg that there was no heightened risk of a self-inflicted injury.



3 - Dab some oil on both surfaces - brewpot and drill bit. To ease this beginning part along it is recommended that you use a punch or nail to make a small indentation on your maker spot. If using the 3/16" dill bit to start a pilot hole (easier), do it now.



4 - Start out with low speed and steady pressure while slowly increasing the speed. Make sure there is a constant supply of oil on both surfaces. As you drill bit drops through the increasing diameter levels there will be flying bits of metal and smoke. OIL. OIL. OIL.


5 - Once you've gotten all the way through to your proper diameter - typically 7/8" -  keep the drill going as you withdraw it from the brewpot.


6 - Rinse off the oil and metal filings with a garden hose or in a deep sink. Take your file and smooth any remaining burrs so that it is smooth to the touch.

7 - Test out the fit of your valve. Once it fits and doesn't require any more filing or modifying, go ahead and give it a good washing with warm soapy water.

8 - Have a homebrew and enjoy the fact that you now have a new tool and a new skill to add to your repetoire.


Cheers!

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